Everest Base Camp [Nepal] [South Base Camp]

Text, photographs, and videos by Mr. Sachin Vaidya

Mount Everest is the highest mountain on earth. Everest Base Camp [Nepal] is at an elevation of 17,585 ft. In the past, Everest Base Camp [Nepal] was at Gorak Shep [16,962 ft.]. However with passage of time, it had moved ahead. Trekkers' base camp was different than that of mountaineers' base camp. Trekkers were not allowed to visit mountaineers' base camp.

I visited Everest Base Camp [EBC] [Nepal] during May 2016 as a fixed departure trek organized by Hill and Trails, Mumbai. Ours was a group of six trekkers and a group leader. Nepalese tour manager also accompanied the group. I hereby present day to day account of the same. My prime intention is to share my photographs accompanied by brief description. My videos are non-professional and they serve the purpose of reviving my memories. Blog readers may skip the same.

 

Day 1

The first day involved travel from Mumbai to Kathmandu [4,290 ft.] by direct flight.

Day 2

The second day began with small aeroplane flight from Kathmandu to Lukla [9,350 ft.]. Following photograph shows small aeroplane at Kathmandu airport.

 

Lukla airport was described as one of the most dangerous airports in the world. Following photographs are of Lukla airport:

Following is the view from Lukla airport:

Thereafter, I trekked from Lukla to Phakding [8,661 ft.] [via. Chaurikharka, Chheplung, Yulning] [3 hours].

Lukla village catered to the needs of trekkers and mountaineers by providing guides, porters, equipment, clothing, etc. From Lukla onwards, there were no vehicles! Humans, and yaks used to carry all goods. Horses were sparingly used for riding. Following photographs are of Lukla village:

Lukla to Chaurikharka journey was scenic; a number of Buddhist religious sites / symbols were visible.

From Chaurikharka to Chheplung was a similar experience.

From Chheplung to Yulning, I crossed bridge on Dudh Kosi river.

 

There was a hydro electric project.

I had a distant view of Kusum Kangguru peak.

  Yulning was a typical Buddhist village.

Buddhist monuments abounded during the trek from Yulning to Phakding.

 

 

Night halt was at Phakding.

 

Day 3

Third day's trek was from Phakding to Namche Bazaar [11,319 ft.] [via. Rimijung, Chhumuwa, Monjo, Sagarmatha National Park entrance, Jorsalle, Mislung] [6½ hours (excluding lunch break)].

 Phakding was a small village with a suspension bridge.

Dudh Kosi river accompanied the trekkers.

The trek from Rimijung to Chhumuwa was a scenic beauty.

Chhumuwa had a check post.

 

The trek from  Chhumuwa to Monjo was through dense forest.

Monjo was a Buddhist village.

Monjo to Sagarmatha National Park entrance was a very short walk.

At Sagarmatha National Park entrance, permits and passports were checked.

Following paintings were found inside the above gate on walls and ceiling.

From Sagarmatha National Park entrance to Jorsalle, the trek was enjoyable as it involved walking over suspension bridge and nearby river.

The trek from Jorsalle to Mislung was similar experience.

 

Mislung had an entrance ticket counter.

After a long arduous trek, the night halt was at Namche Bazaar.

Day 4

Except a short hike, the fourth day at Namche Bazaar was an acclimatization day.

The morning hike was to Mount Everest View Point.

My photograph at Mount Everest View Point:

On the way, there was a luxury hotel at 12,729 ft.

We walked towards Syangboche [12,795 ft.]; however, we did not reach Syangboche and came back to Namche Bazaar.

 

Namche Bazaar was a high altitude village catering to the trekkers and mountaineers. It had shops, parlours, restaurants, cafes, guest houses, hotels, etc.

Namche Bazaar had a Buddhist monastery.

Day 5

The fifth day's trek was from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche [12,664 ft.] [5¾ hours (excluding lunch break)].

In the morning, after clicking a few photographs of Namche Bazaar, I began the trek.

In route, I found water mills used to move prayer wheels.

The trek was typical high altitude Nepalese trek with suspension bridge, Buddhist relics, summer flowers, streams.

Tengboche had a Buddhist monastery.

The night halt was at Tengboche.

Day 6

Sixth day's trek was high altitude trek from Tengboche to Dingboche [14,271 ft.] [via. Pangboche]; it lasted for four hours from breakfast to lunch.

The trek from Tengboche to Pangboche witnessed reduction in vegetation; gurgling glacial streams accompanied throughout.

Pangboche had a school.

Trek from Pangboche to Dingboche was similar experience.

Dingboche was a small village with a few fields and teahouses. Guesthouses were called teahouses in Nepal. The whole EBC trek could be done without staying in tents.

The night halt was at Dingboche.

 

Day 7

Dingboche had a good yak population.

In the morning, I trekked to Chhukhung [15,584 ft.] and came back to Dingboche within four and half hours from breakfast to lunch.

The trek was marked with glacial stream and shrubs - no trees.

In route was a memorial of mountaineers who lost their lives during Lhotse South Face expedition.

There were a couple of basic lodges at Chhukhung.

While returning (past mid-noon) from Chhukhung to Dingboche, the weather started getting bad.

In the evening, the weather was clear.

Second consecutive night halt was at Dingboche.

Day 8

Eighth day involved trekking from Dingboche to Lobuche [16,207 ft.] [via. Thukla] [4¼ hours (excluding lunch break)]. Even though the duration was short, altitude made the trek exhausting.

The whole EBC trek was marked by adequate signboards.

Dingboche village view was nice.

It was nearly two and half hours journey from Dingboche to Tuglha.

Thorny vegetation with minimal leaves was observed.

Buddhist religious structures were reminding the trekkers that it was a Sherpa land.

Very high altitude permitted only shrubs to grow on desert like landscape.

Thukla (15,157 ft.) had a food joint.

Thukla village to Thukla pass (15,944 ft.) was an upward journey.

As per tradition, Thukla pass had Buddhist prayer flags.

This is my photograph. It was cold and windy at the pass.

There were a few memorials of mountaineers who lost their lives during Everest expedition.

Tuglha pass to Lobuche was dry and arid region without any vegetation.

Night halt was at Lobuche.

Day 9

Lobuche was set in a stunning mountain background.

Lobuche to Gorak Shep [16,962 ft.] journey was nearly two and half hours. Long back, Everest Base Camp was at Gorak Shep. During this stretch of trek, I could see snow at close quarters; however, I could not touch it.

Memorials for mountaineers abounded in the region.

My photograph:

Gorak Shep was visible from a distance; a landed helicopter was also seen. Gorak Shep and a few other places had the facility of hiring a helicopter to Kathmandu.

Gorak Shep had only three tea houses with limited facilities. There was only solar electricity. The solar electricity was shut down early at night in rooms and corridors; the saving grace was that toilets had solar electricity throughout the night.

After lunch, Everybody headed for Everest Base Camp. It snowed throughout right from exiting the tea house. I could not take good photographs. At some point, I felt to return without completing the trek.

In following photograph, my fellow trekker, Dr. Aparna Rege, could be seen at forefront.

Gorak Shep lake was visible.

It snowed heavily at Everest Base Camp; hence I could not stay for a long time there; also, photographs were not clear.

Coming back to Gorak Shep from Everest Base Camp was strenuous.

The trek from Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp and back lasted for nearly four and half hours. If trek from Lobuche to Gorak Shep was to be taken into account, the total trekking duration was seven hours for the day. It was an exhausting day.

Throughout the trek, traditional Nepalese, Chinese, and Western food was available. Satellite telephone facility was also available.

Trekkers had to pay separately towards hot water for bath and camera / mobile charging; even hot drinking water was charged separately! Drinking water was never served along with food; it was made available only when requested for.

Day 10

The tenth day started our return journey. The trek was from Gorak Shep to Pheriche [14,009 ft.] [via. Lobuche, Thukla] [4½ hours (excluding lunch break)]. Before departing, I did a photo shoot of Gorak Shep.

There was a statue of Emperor Shivaji Maharaj installed by a Maharashtrian group working for local Gorkha population.

I trekked from Gogak Shep to Lobuche.

From Lobuche, I trekked towards Thukla pass.

Thukla pass:

From Thukla pass, I trekked towards Thukla village.

The night halt was at Pheriche.

Day 11

Eleventh day's trek was from Pheriche to Namche Bazaar [via. Tengboche] [8½ hours (excluding lunch break)].

A few photographs and a video shot during the trek from Pheriche to Tengboche are presented here.

The return journey followed the same route.

Painting face on 'Stupa' was a typical Nepalese tradition.

Early summer flowers had vivid colours.

A bit unusual vegetation was observed.

As I descended to lower altitude, tall trees were visible.

Tengboche Monastery:

It was a long trekking day and due to exhaustion and limited time, only a photograph could be shot between Tengboche and Namche Bazaar. Rhododendron had bloomed.

I breathed a sigh of relief when I had a sight of Namche Bazaar.

Night halt was at Namche Bazaar.

Day 12

Twelfth day's was trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding [via. Jorsale, Sagarmatha National Park check post] [5¼ hours (excluding lunch break)].

Namche Bazaar to Jorsale trek was in the lap of nature.

Trek from Jorsale to Sagarmatha National Park check post involved walking over a long suspension bridge.

Visiting Sagarmatha National Park check post again involved mixed feelings.

Trek from Sagarmatha National Park check post to Phakding was an repeat experience.

Night halt was at Phakding.

Day 13

Thirteenth day's trek from Phakding to Lukla [3¼ hours].

Phakding was cloudy in the morning.

The trek was through beautiful countryside.

I exited from Lukla entrance.

Lukla airport was visible from the lodge where we stayed.

The trekking team celebrated completion of trek by cutting a cake!

The cake was also distributed to the porters and they were rewarded suitably. The porters left thereafter. The Nepalese tour guide (Shri. Arjun) continued to be with us till we reached Kathmandu.

Night halt was at Lukla and the next day was flight to Kathmandu.

Day 14

Day 14 witnessed cancellation of flight from Lukla to Kathmandu due to bad weather. The whole team went to airport with luggage and came back with the same.

Day 15

Fifteenth day witnessed non-availability of flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. I shot photographs of Lukla airport and visited Lukla market.

Day 16

Finally early in the morning, I boarded flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. The rest of the day was utilized by doing Kathmandu sightseeing.

Narayanhiti Palace Museum was a huge complex. As photography and videography was prohibited, I could complete the visit in short time. Only limited portion of the palace was open to the visitors. Many palace rooms were small compared to Indian palaces.

After visiting Palace Museum, I visited Pashupatinath Temple. Photography and videography were not permitted there.

The evening time was shopping time in Thamel area of Kathmandu.

At night, the tour company offered farewell dinner accompanied by cultural show in Thamel.

The night halt was at Kathmandu.

Day 17

The last day was aeroplane journey from Kathmandu to Mumbai. The memories of EBC trek will last for ever!